Saturday, December 31, 2011
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Monday, December 26, 2011
Easy Foil Insulation Install Guide and Recommended Materials to Achieve a U Value of 0.16
The Need For Foil Insulation
When installed correctly, insulation reduces the heat transfer through the envelope of a building. When ever there is a temperature difference, heat flows naturally from a warmer space to a cooler space. To maintain comfort in winter, the heat lost must be replaced by the heating system: and in summer, the heat gained must be removed by the cooling system. Statistics show that 50% to 70% of the energy used in the average home in the U.K. is for heating and cooling. It makes sense to use thermal insulation to reduce this energy consumption, while increasing comfort and saving money. Naturally, less consumption of fossil fuels and the energy produced from them relieves the burden our eco-system must bear.
To summarise, insulating the envelope of a building`s conditioned space yields these key points:
- Provides a much more comfortable, productive and livable structure. In addition, the effects of moisture condensation and air movement are minimized in well-insulated buildings. This results in lower maintenance costs and increased longitivity of the building structure.
- Reduces energy requirements, which lower utility bills.
- Supports economic, environmental and energy conservation goals. This is evidenced by the numerous studies sponsored by the energy commission.
Heat moves through wall cavities or between roofs and attic floors by radiation, conduction, and convection with radiation the dominant method of heat transfer. A reflective insulation is an effective v barrier against radiant heat transfer because it reflects almost all of the infrared radiation strickeing its surface and emits very little heat conducted through it. By virtue of its impermeable surface, reflective insulation also reduces convective heat transfer. Mass insulation like fibre Glass, polyisocyanurate (pir) insulation board or rock wool, primarily slow heat flow by eliminating convection and reducing some radiation. Reflective insulation provides a dramatic reduction in radiation heat flow as well as some convection. Polyisocyanurate boards and Spray foam can provide increased resistance to conductive transfer until the cell gas is lost or diluted by air normally over a period of 15 years.
What Is Radiant Barrier Reflective Insulation? Radiant barrier insulation is a reflective insulation system that offers a permanent way to reduce energy costs. Radiant barrier insulation systems reflect radiant heat energy instead of trying to absorb it. A pure aluminum radiant barrier reflective insulation is unaffected by humidity and will continue to perform at a consistent level no matter how humid it may be. A radiant barrier insulation system is a layer of foil facing an airspace and is installed in the envelope of a building.
Most people are familiar with traditional insulating materials such as fiberglass, cellulose, Polyiscyanurate boards, Styrofoam, and rock wool. These products use their ability to absorb or resist (slow down) convective and conductive heat transfer to insulate (R-value). A third, seldom discussed but dominant form of heat transfer exists: radiant heat transfer. What are the differences among the three forms of heat transfer? Conductive: Direct contact. If you touch a pot on the stove, this is conductive heat transfer. Convective: Steam, moisture. If you put your hand above a boiling pot, you will feel heat in the form of steam. This is convective heat transfer.
Radiant: Electromagnetic. Step outside on a sunny day and feel the sun's rays on your face. You are feeling radiant heat transfer. All objects above absolute zero (-459.7 degrees F.) emit infrared rays in a straight line in all directions.
A radiant barrier reflects radiant heat energy instead of trying to absorb it. What does this mean in your home or business? During the winter, 50-75% of heat loss through the ceiling/roofing system and 65-80% of heat loss through walls is radiant. In the summer, up to 93% of heat gain is radiant. If you are depending on R-value (resistance) alone to insulate against heat gain and loss, remember that traditional forms of insulation are virtually transparent to radiant energy and are affected by changes in humidity (moisture levels). A 1-1/2% change in the moisture content of fiberglass insulation will result in a 36% decrease in performance (referenced from HVAC Manual 10.6; McGraw-Hill). A pure aluminum radiant barrier is unaffected by humidity and will continue to perform at a consistent level no matter how humid it may be.
Concept of Reflective Insulation
Different types of insulation products reduce the heat transferred by conduction, convection and radiation to varying degrees. As a result, each provides different thermal performance and corresponding "R" values. The primary function of reflective insulation is to reduce the radiant heat transfer across open spaces, which significant contributor to heat gain in summer and heat loss in winter. The low emittance metal foi surface of the product blocks up to 97% of the radiation and therefore a significant part of heat transfer. There are many types of material that reduce heat gain and heat loss. Some materials provide greater resistance than other, depending on the mode of heat transfer: convection, or radiation. Most insulating materials work on the principle of trapped air, gas being a good insulator. Mass insulation like fibreglass, foam, and cellulose use layers of Glass fibre, plastic and wood fibre respectively to reduce convection thereby decreasing the transfer of heat. These materials also reduce heat transfer by conduction due to the presence of trapped air. ( However, these products, like most building materials, have very high radiant transfer rates.) Heat flow by radiation has been brought to the public`s attention with high efficiency windows which commonly use the term "low E " to advertise the higher performance ratings. This value is measured in emitance or "e" values ranging from 0 to 1 (lower "E" value indicates better performance). Most building materials, including fibreglass, foam and cellulose have "E" values in excess of 0.70. Reflective insulation typically have "E" values of 0.03 ( again, the lower the better ). Therefore, reflective insulation is superior to other types of insulating materials in reducing heat flow by radiation. The term reflective insulation, in some ways a misnomer because aluminium or polyester either works by reflecting heat (reflectance of 0.97) or not by radiating heat (emitance of 0.03) whether stated as reflectivity or emitance, the performance (heat transfer) is the same. When reflective insulation is installed in wall cavity, it traps air ( like other insulation materials) and therefore reduces heat flow by convection thus addressing both modes of heat transfer. In all cases, the reflective material must be adjacent to an air space. Foil, when sandwiched between two pieces of plywood for example, will conduct heat at a high rate.
In the UK current regulations require us to provide insulation that will achieve a u value of 0.16, this can be achieved by using several of our foil materials in co- junction with glass wool or polyisocyanurate (PIR) board.To give you more detail it would be advised to consult your local building control on what specification they require as we have seen many councils differ on specifications. We would recommened the following specification and have had many excellent reports on completed jobs around the UK and France. If this is a to gain more insulation and create a warm roof a DIY job, you would use 70mm of polyisocyanurate board or 100mm glass wool between your rafters, then cover the face of the rafters with a quilted foil, we would recommend Actis super 10, Super foil 19, Alumaflex or Aluthermo quatro. all these materials we stock for instant despatch. If using the foil on its own you would achieve a u- value of somewhere between 0.18 - 0.20, which is quite acceptable on a refurbishment project. I f the roof tiles have been removed you would lay the foil insulation on the top side of the rafters and counter pattern would be put in place and a membrane to cover this batons and roof tile. The most important aspect with any foil insulation is to have a 25mm airspace between the foil and any covering material, this will allow for heat transmission to take place, with out this you are eliminating the benifit of reflection from the face of the foil. Bubble foil is also a low cost great way to insulate your home, very popular in the USA and known as house wrap, low cost and very effective, great for keeping your house cool in sumer months as well as retaining heat in winter.
Roofing Solutions are Reflective Foil Insulation and Loft Insulation Suppliers UK and Republic of Ireland - Roofing Solutions, Kent UK
BBA & LABC THERMAL APPROVED INSULATION
Suppliers to the United Kingdom and the European Union as well as Denmark and Africa. Roofing Solutions is a leading loft insulation suppliers offering thermal reflective foil insulation for domestic and commercial use. As leading loft insulation suppliers, you can be sure of first rate service from Roofing Solutions. What's more offer BBA and LABC, CSTB, EU thermal approved insulation with low emission high reflection systems available to UK and Republic of Ireland and European customers.
Roofing Solutions Insulation is a reflective foil insulation materials and loft insulation suppliers, materials for floors, walls and roofs to be installed in all types of buildings. We believe in the correct product for your application, whether your requirement is for industrial, commercial, retail or residential loft insulation purposes. All materials are easy to install and do not require expensive skilled labour and are for easy DIY projects. The range of our products are from ultra thin light reflective membranes and radiant barrier such as GALAXY to bubble reflective foil insulation with laminate aluminium on both sides known as ALUBUBBLE as well as AIRFLEX, our leading Quilted brands such as, SUPERFOIL 19, SUPERFOIL 40, SUPERQUILT. FOIL 40, ALUTHERMO QUATRO Our Range of Reflective Thermal quilted multi - layer insulation with acoustic properties. As well as a host of accessories to complete your insulation works. We also stock a range of thin reflective underfloor insulation products as well as underlays for under tiles as well as timber flooring for noise reduction.
For competitive prices and free advice do not hesitate to contact us, or complete our online enquiry form.
TEL:01795 597912 OR 01795 591811
[http://www.roof-solutions.co.uk]
Sunday, December 25, 2011
Precision Electret Condenser Microphone EMM-6
Friday, December 23, 2011
Acoustic Enclosures
Acoustic Enclosures are specialist structures that are used in industries for noise control. They are essentially a sound proof box (room) they can be constructed near enough anywhere and are an enclosed space in which sound made inside this space is reduced to everything outside of this enclosure.
Large Metal ones are often used in factories and enclose large loud generators. These generators out put an extreme amount on noise and can make the environment completely unworkable. The Acoustic Enclosure will eliminate up to about 90% of this noise, some structures are completely soundproof but can be very costly.
Some of the features of these industrial Enclosures are as follows:
- Ones designed for use in external sites (outside) are weatherproof.
- The panel thickness is specifically calculated for the purpose it is manufactured.
- Double glazed and single glazed windows are available as viewing panels.
- Double lead and single doors are available for access.
- Optional Pipework and ductwork entry points.
- Natural or Forced Air ventilation systems are available in Industrial Acoustic Enclosures.
- Lighting is available, this can be very important for enclosures that you need to enter as depending on its surrounding environment it could be pitch black inside.
- General electrics can be included for the likes of heating.
There are many different finishes that you can have:
- Powder coated finishes are available.
- Paint finishes in any desired colour.
- Plastisol Coated Steel finish.
- Galvanised Stainless Steel self colour.
Wesley Clarke writes about Acoustic Enclosures. Visit the Businessmagnet product page for details and suppliers of Acoustic Enclosures.
Wednesday, December 21, 2011
Tour of the Porta-Booth® Pro Portable Sound Booth
Monday, December 19, 2011
Which Acoustic Absorption Products to Choose
Sunday, December 18, 2011
Use Somebody (Acoustic Cover)
Friday, December 16, 2011
The Ultimate Gas Furnace Troubleshooting Guide
Looking for some quick tips on how to keep your gas furnace in tip-top shape this winter? The Ultimate Gas Furnace Troubleshooting Guide will answer all of your questions, including how to turn on a furnace, how to change a furnace filter, how to test a furnace's airflow, what to do if a furnace doesn't ignite, and much more.
We hope you find this guide to be useful - and we hope you stay warm this winter!
A) How to Turn On Your Gas Furnace
It sounds easy, but believe it or not, many people don't know how to turn their furnace on or off. Here's a simple, step-by-step breakdown:
* Find the breaker for your furnace. It's part of the electrical panel, which is usually located in your basement, utility room or garage. The breaker should be clearly labeled with a gas furnace sticker. Turn the breaker to the "On" position.
* Locate and turn on the furnace switch. It is typically somewhere near the bottom of your basement stairs - sometimes in the ceiling, sometimes in the furnace room itself, and usually at eye level or slightly higher.
* Set your thermostat. Check that the furnace is on and then make sure that the selector switch is set to "Heat". Finally, adjust your set point temperature, and that's it - your furnace is turned and ready to heat your home!
B) How to Check and Change Your Furnace Filter
Proper maintenance of your furnace filter can help optimize airflow from your furnace, which will keep it running efficiently and economically during the coldest months of the year. To prevent burnout of your furnace parts, we recommend inspecting your filter monthly and changing it every three to six months. Here's how it's done:
* Begin by carefully opening the furnace's external rack or panel door.
* Remove the furnace filter by sliding it out. Take a look at the filter to see if there's any darkness or discoloration.
* If you can't see through the filter, it's definitely time for a new one. Slide the new filter into the furnace, making sure that it is installed in the direction of the airflow. And that's it - you're done!
C) How to Test Your Furnace's Airflow
If a room in your house is too cold during the winer, it might be because your furnace isn't supplying enough warm air through the registers in that particular room. There's a simple way to test the airflow from your furnace registers to make sure they are working properly -- the garbage bag airflow test.
The test is a quick way to estimate airflow by determining how long it takes to fill a common plastic garbage bag. While it is not a precise measurement, it is better than no measurement at all and will give you a good ideas as to whether you need to call a technician to look at your ductwork.
To do the garbage bag airflow test:
* Tape the mouth of the garbage bag to a coat hanger or piece of cardboard to keep it open.
* Crush the bag flat and place it over the register or exhaust hood.
* Count the number of seconds it takes for the bag to fully inflate.
If the inflation time is:
* 2 seconds = 37 L/s (75 cfm)
* 4 seconds = 20 L/s (40 cfm)
* 10 seconds = 10 L/s (20 cfm)
If the measured airflow is less than 10 L/s, the furnace is delivering only a small amount of heat to a room and needs to be further inspected to determine why the heat is not going through.
The garbage bag airflow test is also useful if you have changed your heating or cooling systems or have made major renovations to your house.
D) If Your Gas Furnace Fails to Ignite
If you can hear that your furnace is on and the fan is running, but all you're getting is cold air, you likely have ignition failure. Try resetting your furnace by turning the switch to off for at least ten seconds, then, turning it on again. If that doesn't do the trick, give your HVAC contractor a call.
E) Furnace Troubleshooting Checklist
Think your gas furnace has quit? You could save yourself the cost of a no-heat service call by checking the following:
* Is the furnace switch in the on position? It may have been turned off by mistake.
* Is the thermostat properly set to the "heat" position and the temperature set to your normal heat setting?
* Is the furnace venting blocked by snow or ice? If so, try to remove the blockage.
* Are the programmable thermostat batteries fresh?
* Is the circuit breaker in the electric panel in the proper position?
* Is the furnace door properly closed?
* Has the filter been changed recently? If you've checked everything on the list and your furnace still isn't working, give your local HVAC contractor a call, and they'll get your furnace back up and running as soon as possible.
F) How to Properly Remove Vent Blockages
If you become aware of a furnace problem that might involve the exterior vent, do a quick inspection and see if any snow, ice or some common household item might be blocking the vent. If so, before removing the obstruction, head inside first and turn the off the power to your furnace. Now, you can safely clear away whatever is blocking your exterior vent. Once you're done, turn your furnace back on using either the breaker or the switch.
A lack of airflow through the furnace's interior vents could mean your furnace fan motor has seized. If this has happened, don't try to fix the problem yourself - contact the expert furnace repair technicians at your local HVAC contractor.
G) How to Stop Air Leaks and Prevent Heat Loss
Air leaks account for a significant amount of a home's heat loss in winter - resulting in increased heating costs as your furnace constantly tries to replace the warm air that has escaped from your home. Fixing these leaks will save you money on your heating bills.
To stop leaks around windows and doors:
* Remove the trims carefully.
* Fill large cracks or gaps with foam backer rod, oakum, or expanding polyurethane foam.
* Replace the trims and caulk along the edges.
To stop leaks along baseboards:
* Caulk along the seams without removing the baseboard.
* Remove the baseboard and caulk between the wall and the floor.
To stop leaks around electrical outlets on outside walls:
* Turn off power to the outlet and remove the outlet cover.
* Install a foam insulating pad.
* Replace the outlet cover turn the power back on to the outlet.
To stop leaks in an unfinished basement:
* Caulk under the basement sill plate and around the joists with a rubber-based caulking or acoustical sealant.
* Caulk any gaps where ducts enter a wall or ceiling.
* Insulate ducts with preformed wraps or duct-taped insulation batts.
To stop leaks in your attic:
* Seal any cracks.
* Weather strip your attic door and close it tightly.
H) If a Gas Smell is Detected
In the unlikely event that you smell something like a rotten egg smell, you could have a gas leak. Don't turn on any electrical switches and open all of your windows. Then, go to a neighbour's house and contact your HVAC contractor or your local gas provider immediately.
Holmes Heating is the most trusted Ottawa HVAC contractor, specializing in duct cleaning service and the sale, rental, installation, service, and maintenance of natural gas furnaces, air conditioners, water heaters, and humidifiers. Visit us online at www.HolmesHeating.com today.
Thursday, December 15, 2011
Sound Vault Soundproof Recording Studio Doors
There is precious little information on the Internet about soundproof doors. In this article we will talk about doors with a sound rating of 55 STC or greater. Soundproof doors can be used in many applications for example, sound recording studios, high end home theaters as well as private office spaces and conference room application.
Generally most soundproof doors are custom made to the customer's specifications. The most effective soundproofed doors are constructed in layers and are from 2 inches to 3 inches thick. The better soundproof doors come complete with the doorframe and all of the mounting hardware, which would include the perimeter sound seals and the door bottom drop down transom seal. The drop down transom is a spring-loaded mechanism that trips a trigger when the door is closed which in turn drops the spring-loaded seal to where it contacts the floor and seals the door from the bottom. These parts are part of the tested door assembly. These doors are constructed of laminated wood with multiple layers of sound barriers as well as visco elastic damping compounds added. Soundproof doors come ready to stain or paint to match any décor.
These doors weigh in at about 300 Lbs so there is some labor involved in their installation. One of the better soundproof doors is provided by Soundproofing America and it is a called the Sound Vault(TM) acoustical door. This door comes in either and oak finish that is ready to stain as well as the optional birch, maple and cherry finishes.
The Sound Vault(TM) Acoustical doors are ready to install and can be custom made to match any décor. The application for these doors is endless. The Sound Vault(TM) acoustical door are a superb recording studio door, which can also be used for voice over booths as well. They are a great addition to any Home theater or media room application.
Any place where sound is an issue, the Sound Vault(TM) acoustical door is the solution.
For more information on this and other soundproofing and noise control products, go to the experts at soundproofing America.
I hope you have found this to be informative. This is Dr. Bob...Out!!
Dr. Bob is the Senior Technical Advisor at Soundproofing America Inc, the leading authority in Soundproofing and Acoustical treatment technology.
Dr. Bob O.
Soundproofing America, Inc.
Senior Technical Director
Soundproofing Expert to The New York Times, The San Francisco Herald Examiner, The San Diego Union Tribune, and the Charlotte Observer
Ph (877) 530-0139 Toll free Fax (347) 721-9079
E-mail: Dr.bob@soundproofingamerica.com
http://www.soundproofingamerica.com
Tuesday, December 13, 2011
Five Tips on How to Build a Quiet PC
If you're a computer enthusiast who's ready to mod your current computer with the latest and greatest computer hardware, or if you're someone who just can't stand the noise your computer is constantly making, you're in luck. Below are the top five tips on building a quiet pc.
1.) Power Supply - This is the device that produces the power for your computer. Unfortunately, this is almost always the noisiest part your computer includes. It usually contains one or two fans which are used to cool the device down. Fortunately, with today's technology, you can now buy power supplies which only use their fans when the temperature reaches a set point. This will both reduce noise, and save energy.
2.) Case Fans - The reasons for having case fans are obvious, to create proper airflow. Unfortunately, for some computers, they're only there to create obnoxious noise. If your computer is mainly used for documents, internet, and e-mail, chances are you don't need more than one case fan. A system used for the latest computer games on the other hand, will need proper airflow to bring internal temperatures down to a safe operating level.
3.) Disk Drives - If this is your noise issue, there isn't too much you can do, except invest in a CD or DVD drive known for being a quieter model, or insert acoustic padding around them. If you're having issues with floppy drive noises, I'll just tell you now, you're way behind in technology. A memory card reader is far faster, and is completely silent.
4.) Hard Drives - Hard drive noises are often difficult to suppress as well. The common hard drive noises are heard when the device is in use, opening a program, installing software, etc. Often the noises are the vibrations between your hard drive, and your hard drives mount. Cushioning your device with padding like silica gel can often reduce some of the noise. If you're hard drive is making unusual and highly noticeable noises while not in use, there's a chance it could be failing. Please consult a service technician if this is the case.
5.) Computer Case - This is often forgotten about. There are many types of cases engineered in all sorts of ways. You can even purchase a case with sound padding materials included in it. Consider the material of the case itself. An aluminum case can by flimsy, and can increase noise levels from its vibrations. A steel case however, is more solid, and is less prone to creating vibrations. The down side of a steel case would be its weight. Whichever case you decide to use, adding acoustic sound padding, silica gel, and foam blocks, will significantly reduce vibrations.
Building a quiet pc isn't for everyone. If you own a brand name computer, you'll likely have a hard time following the tips shown above. Modifications to a brand name computer could potentially void a warranty. I would suggest researching this first before using my tips. You must also remember that your computer must run at safe operating temperature to avoid any device malfunctions, or even failure. Testing and research is always recommended.
This article has been provided courtesy of [http://www.build-quiet-pc.com]. You have our authorization to reprint this item anywhere on the internet, or even in your ezine or newsletter. If you decide to reprint this article, make sure the author information and this courtesy notice is included.
Monday, December 12, 2011
Foamtak™ Adhesive
Friday, December 9, 2011
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Monday, December 5, 2011
Michael Raphael on Auralex MoPADs
Saturday, December 3, 2011
Best cheap Lightweight Vinyl Sound Damping Sheet 10 x 13 for $4.92 Parts Express
Friday, December 2, 2011
Foamrite Acoustics: Studio Treatments
Tuesday, November 29, 2011
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Monday, November 28, 2011
Basement Remodel
Saturday, November 26, 2011
Sound Insulation - Downtown Apartments And Noise
If you live in an apartment in the center of a city where there is a lot of noise, traffic, or even a stadium or concert hall nearby, you may be plagued with sleepless nights and a lot of irritation. A lot of people refuse to live in the center of a city or near a busy street primarily for that reason. However, the comfort of living in such an area is completely understandable, everything is nearby, and most likely you don't need to drive anywhere. The comfort of it is what keeps people living there, and many people either suffer through the noise or hope to get used to it eventually.
Sound insulation is a great way to help to reduce the noise levels entering your home, and in some cases can eliminate it completely, hence making your nights more peaceful and your life in general much easier. Good soundproofing and acoustic insulation will help to reduce the level of outside noises entering your building. By installing the right kind of products you can reduce the impact of the sound waves and vibrations when they come through the walls or floors. Installing these materials will make everything softer so that the noise does not bounce off the walls and furnishings.
There are several different types of materials which are used and each one serves its own purpose depending upon the area that needs to be soundproofed. For floors you can install sound absorbing materials such as acoustic foam or mats and for walls and ceilings there are special acoustic panels such as Drywall, Sheetrock or Wallboard that can be installed to absorb the vibrations and make the environment much softer, thereby reducing the noise.
Once you have taken care of your soundproofing there are other simple ways to help with acoustic insulation such as lagging your pipes, buying good quality furnishings such as fitted carpets, rugs and soft furnishings and installing good quality double glazing and thick curtains. All of these things are very important in helping to soften the environment and thus ensuring that your home is a more comfortable place to live in.
Now everyone can enjoy living in loud downtown areas without having the worries of excessive noise and the overall frustration of sleepless nights. Following these simple soundproofing methods any apartment can become a tranquil haven. For more detailed methods on soundproofing it is best to contact a specialist in order to achieve the optimum results. These specialists can be found online or in your local yellow pages.
Sue Mitchell is Leading Writer on SEO Company, having a large number of articles published on various well reputed internet sites. Check out for Her articles about Sound Insulation
Friday, November 25, 2011
Natural Noise Protection
Loud noise isn't just a hazard for maintaining good hearing. It's also annoying. Researchers publishing their findings in the Scandinavian Journal of Work and Environmental Health found that chronic noise exposure increases fatigue and irritability after work. The researchers found that, after the workday was over, these fatigue symptoms and postwork irritability made relaxation difficult.
Noise protection reducing unwanted background noise by 30-33 dB (earmuffs) for 7 days produced significant improvement in irritability and fatigue symptoms. Furthermore, urinary cortisol secretion was shown to increase with unwanted background noise. Stress hormone levels fall back to normal only after seven days away from noise. The use of hearing protection seems even to promote self-confidence and reduce hostility to others.
So what can you do? Here are some simple steps:
Wear ear protection. Earmuffs, the kind that go over your ears and are worn by luggage handlers around jet planes, cost around $10 a pair. foam earplugs are 25-50 cents a pair. Both earmuffs and earplugs are available where sporting goods are sold. Used before exposure to loud sounds, earmuffs and earplugs can prevent a potential hearing loss. Be sure earplugs fit snugly in the ear, or they are of no value.
A homeopathic approach to sudden hearing loss would begin with Belladonna, with addition of Kali Mur and Kali Phos. Bellandonna is a general remedy for all kinds of sudden changes in health "above-the-neck." Kali Mur "drains" the ear and Kali Phos is used to treat tinnitus and the nervous exhaustion it may cause. There is some scientific research supporting the use of homeopathics in treating ear inflammation, but no clinical trials have studied the use of homeopathics for acoustic trauma.
Neuromonics, an Australian-designed therapy consisting of custom-designed CDs for listening two to three hours a day to very high frequency sound to keep sensory pathways in the brain active, is sometimes used to treat sudden hearing loss from acoustic trauma. There are no guarantees, however, and a program usually requires six months of treatment at a total cost of US $5000.
Sport shooting (skeet and trap) is especially damaging to hearing. There are now available earmuffs that allow shooters to hear conversations and environmental sounds (so the shooter is not in danger of being shot by another participant) but block the sound of gunshots.
Occasionally people who have lost their hearing regain it after eliminating dairy products (and processed foods containing whey, such as lunch meats). In these cases, hearing loss was due to a reaction to milk protein causing inflammation in the inner ear rather than acoustic trauma, but eliminating dairy products for a trial period of 3 to 6 weeks will not damage health and may be helpful.
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Wednesday, November 23, 2011
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Monday, November 21, 2011
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Friday, November 18, 2011
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Tuesday, November 15, 2011
Why Good Carpet Underlay Is Important
Most carpets are installed on top of an underlay that many tend to overlook because it is unseen and its benefits are not clearly understood.
Underlays provide:
* stability,
* comfortable step,
* carpet protection against crushing forces from furniture and foot traffic,
* additional acoustic and thermal insulation
* generally extends the life of your carpet
Underlays come in several types:
Felt: This type of underlay was commonly used in the past and is made of natural fibers like jute waste material and wool or a combination of fibers. It provides a dense and firm underlay but is now seldom used.
Rubber waffle underlay: This is considered of good quality although it can be the most expensive. It comes in different degrees of softness but what you're looking for should feel firm not soft. Its cellular construction allows air to circulate within the material, reducing dampness and condensation under the carpet. Choose one that is not only strong and durable but also provides high resilience and firm support. While rubber waffles can come in various thicknesses and weights, as a guide, the heavier the better.
Urethane and bonded urethane: Also known as foam underlay, this type of material is recycled from waste products of old furniture and is popular with homeowners because of its environmental factor. Its quality is determined by the foam density which is expressed in pounds. A foam density between 5 to 8 pounds will give you a quality, long lasting underlay. Choose higher density foam for areas with high amounts of foot traffic.
How to choose underlay
Location of use: Where you intend to lay your carpet and the amount of traffic it will experience must be considered when choosing the underlay. You'll need sturdy and firm material for high traffic areas or a softer feel for the feet in the bedroom or living room.
Right thickness: Most people make the mistake of choosing underlays that are too thick only to find that very thick ones can stretch the carpet and cause it to wear quickly. The underlay should be thick enough to act as a shock absorber - as a guide, the heel of your shoe should not be able to feel the floor under the carpet.
Test several: Getting the right feel means trying out several choices under your carpet before buying the underlay. Your supplier should be able to assist you in finding the right one for your needs.
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Monday, November 14, 2011
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Thursday, November 10, 2011
What are Acoustic Panels?
Wednesday, November 9, 2011
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Monday, November 7, 2011
Soundproofing a Home Theater Using Green Glue Or Mass Loaded Vinyl
It's kind of nice being in the "do it yourself kind of business" like soundproofing. In today's world taking the family out on a Friday night for dinner and a movie might cost you more than your monthly mortgage payment. That is why many families are opting for their very own home Theater. If you have a spare room or an empty space in your basement or attic, you have a potential Home Theater.
It used to be that the best way to build a home theater or a home studio was to construct new wall within the existing room and then build what we call a "Room within a room." Though this method of soundproofing is still quite effective, it is costly and eats up a lot of wall space in your already cramped theater room.
A better suggestion is to work with your existing walls by applying a new layer of drywall to the existing walls and ceiling but applying a layer of a product called Green Glue on the new drywall and sandwich it in between the existing wall and the new drywall. If you do this to all the walls and the ceiling you are well on your way to a great soundproof home theater. Now if your home theater is on a second floor, the ceiling now becomes less of a concern and now the floors become more of an issue. Floors can be soundproofed in many different ways depending on what the finished floor is going to be installed. If you are planning on having carpet and pad for the finished floor in your theater, then a soundproof floor underlay would be in order. Something like American Impactless soundproof floor underlay or American Impact Standard underlay. These are both recycled rubber products that would lie atop of the wood or concrete sub floor to stop the airborne sounds of the home theater from traveling down to the people below.
The Impactless is a less dense rubber underlay and would be perfect for under carpet and pad. The American Impact Standard would also be effective under the carpet and pad, but is more suited for hardwood and ceramic tile floors due to its sheer mass.
Other concerns that you might have with your home theater would be doors and windows. Let's talk about doors for a minute; if you are trying to keep the movie in the home theater, then a hollow core door could be your worst enemy. Most modern bedroom doors are hollow core and do little in the way of soundproofing. Your best bet would be to go to Home Depot or Lowe's and purchase a solid core MDF or solid wood door. You could ad an automatic drop down transom seal to the bottom of the door and also a door perimeter seal kit to seals around the door where it closes into the jam. A real soundproof door could cost thousands, with a little time and careful planning; you can get the same results at 1/4 the cost.
The last thing we need to talk about are the windows in your home theater. If neighbors are a concern, then I would suggest building window plugs with the 2" America Mat closed cell vinyl nitrile foam mat. For example, if your window were 3' X 3', you would cut the foam to 3'1" X 3' 1" thus giving the window plug and extra 1/2" around it's entire perimeter. This extra 1/2" will help to hold the window plug tightly into the window frame much like a cork in a bottle. If the window is 4' or more on either dimension, it is suggested that the window plug be glued to a backer board, something like wood paneling or Luaan. These wood panels can be found at home Depot or Lowe's.
Well, I think we have covered every aspect of building your very own home theater; next time we will discuss acoustical treatments for your theater, until then, Dr. Bob.... Out!!!
Dr. Bob is the Senior Technical Advisor at Soundproofing America Inc, the leading authority in Soundproofing and Acoustical treatment technology.
Dr. Bob O.
Soundproofing America, Inc.
Senior Technical Director
Soundproofing Expert to The New York Times, The San Francisco Herald Examiner, The San Diego Union Tribune, and the Charlotte Observer
Ph (877) 530-0139 Toll free Fax (347) 721-9079
E-mail: Dr.bob@soundproofingamerica.com
http://www.soundproofingamerica.com
Sunday, November 6, 2011
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Tuesday, November 1, 2011
Home Recording Studio Setup - Learn How to Build a Recording Studio the Easy Way
Home recording studio setup can be very difficult. A recording room or recording studio as musicians like to refer to it, may be anything from a basement garage or a spare bedroom to a fully equipped studio complete with all the works necessary to produce optimal sounds. If you are just starting and have yet to land your first recording contract, you are faced with the two-pronged challenge of coming up with a professional sounding record while at the same time working within a limited budget. If by some stroke of luck you have the opportunity to choose a recording room, choose one with good insulation, spacious, carpeted, and if possible, not square, as it adds up to the bounce of the sound waves. At the same time, you want a room with the proper temperature setting (not too cold and not too hot), since it will affect vibration and refraction of sound.
Learn How to Build a Recording Studio
However, a room like this will be far and few in between and if they are at all easily available, they might command a hefty rental price. If you are willing to pay the price to rent these rooms every time you want to have a recording session then by all means go ahead. But, if you are not afraid of working a bit for that ideal recording room then read up and learn on how to make a perfect recording studio out of your spare room.
The secret to making an ideal recording studio is in understanding the nature of sound and sound waves. Sound waves will "bounce" on parallel walls, hence a square room is not too advisable. Since most of our rooms are square, you can defy this bouncing pattern by positioning your listening station in one of the corners and not along one of the walls. Still on the issue of preventing sounds from bouncing all over the place, you should do your best to install some "softening" materials that will dampen the bounce such as carpets for the floor, heavy drapes for the walls, foam products and other similar materials. A drywall will be ideal but aside from the fact that it will take some time and money to have this installed, it is also very permanent and will reduce the usefulness of room for other purposes.
Since you will be recording in an area that will not be isolated from the general public, you want to be able to record at a lover volume, unless you don't mind your neighbors and housemates getting terribly irritated. I myself won't be pleased when I constantly hear banging and clanging from somewhere near my house. To be able to record at a much acceptable sound level, you should invest in near-field monitors or special speakers that will let you listen at close range and will also give you an idea of how your recording will sound like after it is finished. A good set of headphones will be the second best option if you can't afford near-field monitors yet.
On the more practical side, you want to ensure that your workspace will be very comfortable. Recording can sometimes last a long time and you certainly don't want to be complaining about a sore back after a couple of hours. Make sure as well to have adequate space for your station where you can comfortably move about. I know that it sounds as if it takes too much to come up with the perfect recording room, but after some time, when you hear how good you sound on record, you will find that all your efforts have paid up.
Ed Byrd is a Home Recording enthusiast. You can find more on Home Recording Studio Setup and How to Build a Recording Studio on his Home Recording Site
Sunday, October 30, 2011
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Wednesday, October 26, 2011
Using Your Speakers At Full Blast Without Getting In Trouble
True music fans have always had something in common, that might not be their favorite band or singer but, the one thing that every music lover has in common with other music lovers is that they at some point in their lives have wanted to play their favorite tunes at full blast, maybe it was because he really liked the track you were listening to or maybe because you were just in a great mood, whatever made you raise the volume of your stereo (or made you wish you could do so) is not the reason for this article however, we are going to discuss different ways that you could enjoy your favorite music at full blast without having to disturb your neighbors.
There are many alternatives when it comes to listen to your favorite tunes loudly, they could go to your favorite club, to a karaoke place, you could buy a good pair of headphones or even better you could soundproof your room or this to you that you are using to listen to your music.
Electric guitar players, musicians, DJs, composers and other people who had to listen to their creations at a decent volume have faced serious problems with their neighbors because they constantly complain about the inappropriate volume you are this music to. During high school or your younger years you had to use your parents garage in order to practice your electric guitar skills because you didn't want to disturb the rest of the family with the "distortion" feature of it, while that is a somewhat effective way to do what you want to do, it is not the best way of doing things.
Using the same technology that movie theaters use it is possible for the everyday Joe to turn his or her house (Jane in this case) into a sound-proof music studio, that you may think that this will cost you an arm and a leg however, most of the time these installations are relatively inexpensive because of a material which is used to soundproof a room is a special type of foam which is also referred to as acoustic foam.
When it comes to foam, not every shape and type of it will be appropriate in order to soundproof your room, this is why it has to be a special acoustic foam which comes in sheets of different sizes, these sheets have different shapes and designs in order to minimize the echo and to enhance the overall sound quality in the room you're trying to isolate. If you are a musician, a person who has something to music and loud noises or even if you are just a music lover, the best way to avoid trouble caused by your sound equipment's loud volume is to modify your room and make it sound proof.
Cutfoam.co.uk offers more information about acoustic foam and sound proofing, learn more about special acoustic foam from the experts, visit us today!
Monday, October 24, 2011
Types of Laminate Floor Underlayment
Laminate floor underlayment is often much more important than the floor itself. It directly affects the quality and life of the floor, as well as have an impact on its properties and repercussions to the people that use it regularly. All of that makes the choice for the right type of laminate floor underlayment a very important step when installing a your new floor.
Although a great number of underlay models and types are available, many of those are aimed to serve not only laminate but also hardwood and other floors. While it is not necessarily a bad choice, there are laminate specific underlayments that you may prefer in order to ensure the higher overall quality of the finished floor.
Polyfoam is the most versatile and popular type of layer as it can be used on any type of sub-floor surfaces as long as they are dried and cleaned in advance. The foam covers small irregularities and adds slight shock absorbing properties to the floor which makes it more comfortable to walk on. Combined with a damp proof membrane (DPM) layer underneath, it is a good and cheaper solution for the majority of home owners.
Wood fiber boards are the thickest form of underlayment and can smooth out even more irregular sub-floors. This is often the case with old solid or damaged wooden surfaces that are not possible to completely fix manually. A bonus property that comes with wood fiber boards is their excellent sound absorption and heat insulation. A necessity when using such underlayment is to let it acclimatize just like you do with your laminate floor itself by leaving them inside the premise that is to be floor covered.
Combined underlay have a couple of layers pressed together to form a thicker, more complete solution. Not only DPM, but either foam, cork, rubber or a combination of these are used to provide better fill in capabilities that even out surfaces and add noise reduction properties to the floor. Depending on your budget you may be able to find a good serving combo underlayment to fit your needs. With the option to order from the Internet you have access to a larger variety and thus are not limited to what is only available in your local shops.
If you would like to learn more about floors in general, flooring types, floor installation and floor cover maintenance tips, visit http://AllAboutFloors.co.cc where you can read about flooring comparison, installing laminate floors guides and resources, cheap bamboo flooring, laminate hardwood floors, pre-finished hardwood floor, engineered bamboo flooring, and more.
Sunday, October 23, 2011
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Saturday, October 22, 2011
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Locating Your Soundproof Fence
The first thing you must do when installing a soundproof fence is to locate it at least eight feet higher than the source of the noise you want to eliminate. Many municipalities, however, allow only 6' foot high fences, so if necessary, you can raise your fence to the appropriate height by constructing an earthen berm on which to erect the soundproof fence.
If, for instance, the noise you are trying to block is traffic noise, construct a soundproof slatted fence of either redwood or cedar so that it is situated at least eight feet above the street from which the traffic noise is coming. While any fence will help to block unwanted noise, a fence eight feet above the source of the noise will do so most effectively.
Creating a Frame And Foundation For Your Soundproof fence
You should create the sturdiest foundation possible for your soundproof fence, by installing 4" X 4" posts set in concretes to a depth of at least two feet. You need to make your fence frame as strong as possible because the redwood or cedar fencing will have to carry the weight of its sound blocking materials.
Your soundproof fence cross members will be 2' X4' beams connecting its post and providing support to the redwood or cedar slats. When the cross members have been set into the posts, it will be time to install your fence soundproofing materials. You should have already ordered your mass loaded vinyl, or MLV, from Soundproofing America, in wither 30" x 4'1/2" or 35' x 4' rolls, acoustical soundproofing caulk, and sound-dampening tap, which are all you need to create the soundproof membrane.
Installing The Membrane For Your Soundproof Fence
Stretching the mass loaded vinyl over the fence's frame, make sure that it reaches to the ground so that no sound can pass beneath your fence. Make sure the sections of MLV overlap by at least half an inch and either nail or staple them to the fence's frame. Use your acoustical caulk to seal the overlaps and the perimeter of the MLV, and then use PVC seam sealing tape to give further sound protection to the caulked seams.
Finishing Your Soundproof Fence
Now you're ready to add your redwood or cedar slats, using dog-eared 8'foot slats butted as closely as possible, with their seams also caulked (although this is not essential). I suggest putting slats along both sides of your soundproof construction fence, not only to make it look better, but to protect your soundproof membrane. Your fence will do a great job of blocking sound without it, but most homeowners do it anyway!
You can also find more info on townhomes and condos
Soundproofingbliss.com is a comprehensive resource which provide information about sound proofing item.
Friday, October 21, 2011
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Thursday, October 20, 2011
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Tuesday, October 18, 2011
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Sunday, October 16, 2011
Fire Resistant Insulation Complements Safety Systems
It is all too easy for an accidental spark to start a blaze. And, as the nation has recently seen, weather can conspire to prolong and expand the breadth of the flames. However, employing fire resistant foam offers some defense against smaller blazes, and as easy as spraying in insulation.
foam insulation spray offers another means of insulating a building. It is cost effective in the energy output it saves you. It is also greener than other insulating materials and flame resistant. Foam is effective as a sealant because it expands to fill every crevice and empty space, even between joists and joints. In this way, the insulator keeps out air and debris, among other things.
As part of a fire protection system, its sealing feature is also of great benefit. With the foam, you don't have to worry about air pockets within the material where combustibles can collect or cause other hazardous problems. You also don't have to fear flames getting into unfilled pockets to either burn the structure beneath or become hotbeds should a fire occur. Additionally, the fact that the insulation keeps air out prevents more air from reaching a blaze or causing dangerous backdrafts.
One of the best features about fire resistant insulation is that the material itself doesn't burn. Even if fire somehow gets into the insulation, the substance doesn't catch fire. Admittedly, after prolonged exposure to flames, the surface shows charring, but the flames never take hold. Considering the cost of rampant fire damage, charring is a much nicer and more affordable trade off.
In trial tests, investigators built three sample crawl spaces. This trial was conducted to compare the performances of one type of insulator to an untreated "calibration" construction. This first was used for a calibration test. The other two were treated with one type of a spray in insulation product. Each crawl space was tested to a "failure time" in which the flames consumed the plywood or could no longer be sustained.
The calibration deck exhibited steady flames from the front after 6 minutes of exposure to a flame source placed inside the construct. After 9:30 minutes, the blaze penetrated the plywood.
The second and third tests reflected similar results, which surpassed the results of industry standard tests. Specifically, after 1:40 minutes, the controlled blaze ate into the insulation surface, but there was no ignition. After 3:40, there was sporadic ignition of the foam's surface. Ignition ceased after 8:30 minutes. In nearly ten minutes of exposure, there was no burn through of the test material nor the plywood above it.
The investigators allowed the flame source to burn until it collapsed, a period of nearly twenty minutes. The test was finally ended after 26 minutes. There was charring over the whole of the insulating surface, and some loss of material where the flames touched the surface, but the plywood was completely intact as was the majority of the spray in material.
Other products don't last nearly as long in tests. Clearly, fire resistant insulation is an effective way to protect your building. The benefits are clear from the tests. Choosing an environmentally friendly, easy to install and flame resistant product would be of great benefit. With the properties of foam insulation spray, you can install it in a new or existing building. Foam systems for fire protection are a smart and efficient choice for any structure.
Fire hazards are a concern for any building owner. Creating a safe structure is a primary consideration. Employing fire resistant insulation [http://www.apexfoam.com] is a smart choice. Visit Apex Foam Industries to see how their products can serve your needs. [http://www.apexfoam.com]
Friday, October 14, 2011
Green Glue Applied With Drywall Between Joist and Stud Cavities For Added Soundproofing
There are many methods for applying Green Glue effectively; in this article I will describe one common but often times over looked Green Glue application. If you are renovating or completely remodeling you house and have stripped the walls and ceilings down to the bare wood studs and joists, there is a soundproofing method that that can be employed while the walls and ceilings are in this open state.
While these cavities are opened up it is a great idea to cut pieces of drywall that will fit into these joist and stud cavities and then apply Green Glue to the backs of these pieces of drywall and then screw them tightly into the cavities. If you are soundproofing a ceiling, the Green Glue laden drywall will screw directly to the bottom of the sub floor above. If you are adding drywall and green glue to wall (stud cavities) then you will need to be careful as the screws that screw in the Green Glued drywall will only be able to be screwed into the existing drywall on the backside of the wall. Generally folks who are soundproofing their home with Green Glue find that they need only apply the green glue between 2 layers of drywall on either side of the wall and that will be plenty of soundproofing, but in a ceiling situation where you are trying to stop both impact noise as well as airborne sounds from above, you want as much protection as you can get.
Now if you are able to add 2 layer of drywall with Green Glue in between the joist cavities you will be adding greatly to your soundproofing endeavor. Once you have completely lined the cavities with the drywall and Green Glue, you can then install common fiberglass insulation into the remained of the open joist cavity space. Place the insulation into the cavities loosely so that it will help to absorb the noise but will not transmit sound as it could if it were packed tightly into the cavities, this goes for stud cavities as well.
Once you have completed this part of your soundproofing project, you simply need to install 2 more layers of 5/8" drywall to the joists with a minimum of 2 tubes of Green Glue applied to each 4' X 8' layer of drywall that you put up. Three tubes of Green Glue per sheet of 4' X 8' drywall would be better, but as I always say, 4 tubes is a waste of money. Always put your soundproofing dollars where they can do the most good and never spend more than you need to in order to soundproof.
Well I sincerely hope this article has shed some light on some of the other uses of Green Glue as you are building or remodeling your home, office or industrial area. Thanks for reading and learning, this is Dr. Bob...Out!
Dr. Bob is the Senior Technical Advisor at Soundproofing America Inc, the leading authority in Soundproofing and Acoustical treatment technology.
Dr. Bob O.
Soundproofing America, Inc.
Senior Technical Director
Soundproofing Expert to The New York Times, The San Francisco Herald Examiner,
The San Diego Union Tribune, and the Charlotte Observer
Ph (877) 530-0139 Toll free Fax (347) 721-9079
E-mail: Dr.bob@soundproofingamerica.com
http://www.soundproofingamerica.com
Thursday, October 13, 2011
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Monday, October 10, 2011
What is Green Glue and How Does It Work for Soundproofing?
Green Glue is a revolutionary new soundproofing compound that approaches the issues of soundproofing from an entirely different angle. Green Glue is no a sound blocker or a sound absorber of a sound diffuser, but rather it is a sound deadener or damper. I know, I can hear the wheels in your head turning. What is a sound damper? Well, I'm glad you asked. A sound damper is and agent or material that actually stops the transmission of sound through two rigid hard surfaces such as drywall or soundboard.
Here's how it works, when Green Glue is applied to a second sheet of drywall and then sandwiched in between the existing drywall and this new piece of drywall. The Green Glue will actually change the resonant frequencies of both layers of drywall and will stop their ability to transmit sound.
So are your confused yet. I have a very simply analogy of how the Green Glue actually works. I got this from a customer who was well attuned to the properties of Green Glue.
If you will, visualize your wall as being a drumhead. Now you have one of your kids beat the drum with a drumstick. The drum will resonate loud and clear, as there is nothing restricting the transmission of the sound as the drumstick strikes the drumhead. Now let take that same drumhead and as the child strikes the drum you place your finger on the drumhead. What happens now? The drum is now restricted and cannot transmit the sound or will only transmit a fraction of the sound that it did when the drumhead was unrestricted. I hope this little analogy has shown you how the Green Glue acts as a sound damper when applied between two layers of drywall or soundboard. I sure put Green Glue in perspective for me and I have been in the soundproofing industry for years.
Now knowing that the Green Glue is not a blocking agent or and absorber, it is now absolutely essential that is cover every square inch of the drywall layers. In other words, once you screw the second layer of drywall over top the first with the Green Glue sandwiched in between, it makes no difference that the screws are making a connection between the stud structure and the drywall layers. Why you ask? Because we are damping or deadening the drywall layers, he Green Glue is not a soundproof barrier.
Green Glue fills a very critical gap when soundproofing. It precludes you from having to remove your existing drywall. As far as I am concerned, the less demolition I have to do, the better.
Lastly, Green Glue also works remarkably well when applied to your ceiling. If you live in a condo, apartment or loft and have neighbors above you, you know exactly what I am talking about. Impact noise also known as Footfall noise is some of the hardest noise to deal with. Sure you could spend thousands on expensive hangers and clips and mass loaded vinyl not to mention the labor costs involved, and granted you will get some great soundproofing and impact protection if these materials are installed properly, but with if you use the Green Glue system on your ceiling you can experience a 60%-65% reduction in the amount of impact noise that is transmitted from the unit above. With the cost of housing ever climbing, Green Glue is becoming an essential part of building a home that gives you peace and solitude.
To learn more about Green Glue and how it can help you soundproof your home, go to www.greengluecompany.com there you will find independent test of the Green Glue against mass loaded vinyl, lead foil sheeting, suppress and Quiet rock as well as other damping agents. You will see that Green Glue is by far the most effective sound-damping agent on the market today. If you are in the market for this product or any of out quality soundproofing products, go to: www.soundproofingamerica.com, your #1 Soundproofing resource from coast to coast.
This is Dr. Bob....Out!!!
Dr. Bob is the Senior Technical Advisor at Soundproofing America Inc, the leading authority in Soundproofing and Acoustical treatment technology.
Dr. Bob O.
Soundproofing America, Inc.
Senior Technical Director
Soundproofing Expert to The New York Times, The San Francisco Herald Examiner, The San Diego Union Tribune, and the Charlotte Observer
Ph (877) 530-0139 Toll free Fax (347) 721-9079
E-mail: Dr.bob@soundproofingamerica.com
http://www.soundproofingamerica.com