Saturday, December 31, 2011
foam profile cutting machine
Monday, December 26, 2011
Easy Foil Insulation Install Guide and Recommended Materials to Achieve a U Value of 0.16
The Need For Foil Insulation
When installed correctly, insulation reduces the heat transfer through the envelope of a building. When ever there is a temperature difference, heat flows naturally from a warmer space to a cooler space. To maintain comfort in winter, the heat lost must be replaced by the heating system: and in summer, the heat gained must be removed by the cooling system. Statistics show that 50% to 70% of the energy used in the average home in the U.K. is for heating and cooling. It makes sense to use thermal insulation to reduce this energy consumption, while increasing comfort and saving money. Naturally, less consumption of fossil fuels and the energy produced from them relieves the burden our eco-system must bear.
To summarise, insulating the envelope of a building`s conditioned space yields these key points:
- Provides a much more comfortable, productive and livable structure. In addition, the effects of moisture condensation and air movement are minimized in well-insulated buildings. This results in lower maintenance costs and increased longitivity of the building structure.
- Reduces energy requirements, which lower utility bills.
- Supports economic, environmental and energy conservation goals. This is evidenced by the numerous studies sponsored by the energy commission.
Heat moves through wall cavities or between roofs and attic floors by radiation, conduction, and convection with radiation the dominant method of heat transfer. A reflective insulation is an effective v barrier against radiant heat transfer because it reflects almost all of the infrared radiation strickeing its surface and emits very little heat conducted through it. By virtue of its impermeable surface, reflective insulation also reduces convective heat transfer. Mass insulation like fibre Glass, polyisocyanurate (pir) insulation board or rock wool, primarily slow heat flow by eliminating convection and reducing some radiation. Reflective insulation provides a dramatic reduction in radiation heat flow as well as some convection. Polyisocyanurate boards and Spray foam can provide increased resistance to conductive transfer until the cell gas is lost or diluted by air normally over a period of 15 years.
What Is Radiant Barrier Reflective Insulation? Radiant barrier insulation is a reflective insulation system that offers a permanent way to reduce energy costs. Radiant barrier insulation systems reflect radiant heat energy instead of trying to absorb it. A pure aluminum radiant barrier reflective insulation is unaffected by humidity and will continue to perform at a consistent level no matter how humid it may be. A radiant barrier insulation system is a layer of foil facing an airspace and is installed in the envelope of a building.
Most people are familiar with traditional insulating materials such as fiberglass, cellulose, Polyiscyanurate boards, Styrofoam, and rock wool. These products use their ability to absorb or resist (slow down) convective and conductive heat transfer to insulate (R-value). A third, seldom discussed but dominant form of heat transfer exists: radiant heat transfer. What are the differences among the three forms of heat transfer? Conductive: Direct contact. If you touch a pot on the stove, this is conductive heat transfer. Convective: Steam, moisture. If you put your hand above a boiling pot, you will feel heat in the form of steam. This is convective heat transfer.
Radiant: Electromagnetic. Step outside on a sunny day and feel the sun's rays on your face. You are feeling radiant heat transfer. All objects above absolute zero (-459.7 degrees F.) emit infrared rays in a straight line in all directions.
A radiant barrier reflects radiant heat energy instead of trying to absorb it. What does this mean in your home or business? During the winter, 50-75% of heat loss through the ceiling/roofing system and 65-80% of heat loss through walls is radiant. In the summer, up to 93% of heat gain is radiant. If you are depending on R-value (resistance) alone to insulate against heat gain and loss, remember that traditional forms of insulation are virtually transparent to radiant energy and are affected by changes in humidity (moisture levels). A 1-1/2% change in the moisture content of fiberglass insulation will result in a 36% decrease in performance (referenced from HVAC Manual 10.6; McGraw-Hill). A pure aluminum radiant barrier is unaffected by humidity and will continue to perform at a consistent level no matter how humid it may be.
Concept of Reflective Insulation
Different types of insulation products reduce the heat transferred by conduction, convection and radiation to varying degrees. As a result, each provides different thermal performance and corresponding "R" values. The primary function of reflective insulation is to reduce the radiant heat transfer across open spaces, which significant contributor to heat gain in summer and heat loss in winter. The low emittance metal foi surface of the product blocks up to 97% of the radiation and therefore a significant part of heat transfer. There are many types of material that reduce heat gain and heat loss. Some materials provide greater resistance than other, depending on the mode of heat transfer: convection, or radiation. Most insulating materials work on the principle of trapped air, gas being a good insulator. Mass insulation like fibreglass, foam, and cellulose use layers of Glass fibre, plastic and wood fibre respectively to reduce convection thereby decreasing the transfer of heat. These materials also reduce heat transfer by conduction due to the presence of trapped air. ( However, these products, like most building materials, have very high radiant transfer rates.) Heat flow by radiation has been brought to the public`s attention with high efficiency windows which commonly use the term "low E " to advertise the higher performance ratings. This value is measured in emitance or "e" values ranging from 0 to 1 (lower "E" value indicates better performance). Most building materials, including fibreglass, foam and cellulose have "E" values in excess of 0.70. Reflective insulation typically have "E" values of 0.03 ( again, the lower the better ). Therefore, reflective insulation is superior to other types of insulating materials in reducing heat flow by radiation. The term reflective insulation, in some ways a misnomer because aluminium or polyester either works by reflecting heat (reflectance of 0.97) or not by radiating heat (emitance of 0.03) whether stated as reflectivity or emitance, the performance (heat transfer) is the same. When reflective insulation is installed in wall cavity, it traps air ( like other insulation materials) and therefore reduces heat flow by convection thus addressing both modes of heat transfer. In all cases, the reflective material must be adjacent to an air space. Foil, when sandwiched between two pieces of plywood for example, will conduct heat at a high rate.
In the UK current regulations require us to provide insulation that will achieve a u value of 0.16, this can be achieved by using several of our foil materials in co- junction with glass wool or polyisocyanurate (PIR) board.To give you more detail it would be advised to consult your local building control on what specification they require as we have seen many councils differ on specifications. We would recommened the following specification and have had many excellent reports on completed jobs around the UK and France. If this is a to gain more insulation and create a warm roof a DIY job, you would use 70mm of polyisocyanurate board or 100mm glass wool between your rafters, then cover the face of the rafters with a quilted foil, we would recommend Actis super 10, Super foil 19, Alumaflex or Aluthermo quatro. all these materials we stock for instant despatch. If using the foil on its own you would achieve a u- value of somewhere between 0.18 - 0.20, which is quite acceptable on a refurbishment project. I f the roof tiles have been removed you would lay the foil insulation on the top side of the rafters and counter pattern would be put in place and a membrane to cover this batons and roof tile. The most important aspect with any foil insulation is to have a 25mm airspace between the foil and any covering material, this will allow for heat transmission to take place, with out this you are eliminating the benifit of reflection from the face of the foil. Bubble foil is also a low cost great way to insulate your home, very popular in the USA and known as house wrap, low cost and very effective, great for keeping your house cool in sumer months as well as retaining heat in winter.
Roofing Solutions are Reflective Foil Insulation and Loft Insulation Suppliers UK and Republic of Ireland - Roofing Solutions, Kent UK
BBA & LABC THERMAL APPROVED INSULATION
Suppliers to the United Kingdom and the European Union as well as Denmark and Africa. Roofing Solutions is a leading loft insulation suppliers offering thermal reflective foil insulation for domestic and commercial use. As leading loft insulation suppliers, you can be sure of first rate service from Roofing Solutions. What's more offer BBA and LABC, CSTB, EU thermal approved insulation with low emission high reflection systems available to UK and Republic of Ireland and European customers.
Roofing Solutions Insulation is a reflective foil insulation materials and loft insulation suppliers, materials for floors, walls and roofs to be installed in all types of buildings. We believe in the correct product for your application, whether your requirement is for industrial, commercial, retail or residential loft insulation purposes. All materials are easy to install and do not require expensive skilled labour and are for easy DIY projects. The range of our products are from ultra thin light reflective membranes and radiant barrier such as GALAXY to bubble reflective foil insulation with laminate aluminium on both sides known as ALUBUBBLE as well as AIRFLEX, our leading Quilted brands such as, SUPERFOIL 19, SUPERFOIL 40, SUPERQUILT. FOIL 40, ALUTHERMO QUATRO Our Range of Reflective Thermal quilted multi - layer insulation with acoustic properties. As well as a host of accessories to complete your insulation works. We also stock a range of thin reflective underfloor insulation products as well as underlays for under tiles as well as timber flooring for noise reduction.
For competitive prices and free advice do not hesitate to contact us, or complete our online enquiry form.
TEL:01795 597912 OR 01795 591811
[http://www.roof-solutions.co.uk]
Sunday, December 25, 2011
Precision Electret Condenser Microphone EMM-6
Friday, December 23, 2011
Acoustic Enclosures
Acoustic Enclosures are specialist structures that are used in industries for noise control. They are essentially a sound proof box (room) they can be constructed near enough anywhere and are an enclosed space in which sound made inside this space is reduced to everything outside of this enclosure.
Large Metal ones are often used in factories and enclose large loud generators. These generators out put an extreme amount on noise and can make the environment completely unworkable. The Acoustic Enclosure will eliminate up to about 90% of this noise, some structures are completely soundproof but can be very costly.
Some of the features of these industrial Enclosures are as follows:
- Ones designed for use in external sites (outside) are weatherproof.
- The panel thickness is specifically calculated for the purpose it is manufactured.
- Double glazed and single glazed windows are available as viewing panels.
- Double lead and single doors are available for access.
- Optional Pipework and ductwork entry points.
- Natural or Forced Air ventilation systems are available in Industrial Acoustic Enclosures.
- Lighting is available, this can be very important for enclosures that you need to enter as depending on its surrounding environment it could be pitch black inside.
- General electrics can be included for the likes of heating.
There are many different finishes that you can have:
- Powder coated finishes are available.
- Paint finishes in any desired colour.
- Plastisol Coated Steel finish.
- Galvanised Stainless Steel self colour.
Wesley Clarke writes about Acoustic Enclosures. Visit the Businessmagnet product page for details and suppliers of Acoustic Enclosures.
Wednesday, December 21, 2011
Tour of the Porta-Booth® Pro Portable Sound Booth
Monday, December 19, 2011
Which Acoustic Absorption Products to Choose
Sunday, December 18, 2011
Use Somebody (Acoustic Cover)
Friday, December 16, 2011
The Ultimate Gas Furnace Troubleshooting Guide
Looking for some quick tips on how to keep your gas furnace in tip-top shape this winter? The Ultimate Gas Furnace Troubleshooting Guide will answer all of your questions, including how to turn on a furnace, how to change a furnace filter, how to test a furnace's airflow, what to do if a furnace doesn't ignite, and much more.
We hope you find this guide to be useful - and we hope you stay warm this winter!
A) How to Turn On Your Gas Furnace
It sounds easy, but believe it or not, many people don't know how to turn their furnace on or off. Here's a simple, step-by-step breakdown:
* Find the breaker for your furnace. It's part of the electrical panel, which is usually located in your basement, utility room or garage. The breaker should be clearly labeled with a gas furnace sticker. Turn the breaker to the "On" position.
* Locate and turn on the furnace switch. It is typically somewhere near the bottom of your basement stairs - sometimes in the ceiling, sometimes in the furnace room itself, and usually at eye level or slightly higher.
* Set your thermostat. Check that the furnace is on and then make sure that the selector switch is set to "Heat". Finally, adjust your set point temperature, and that's it - your furnace is turned and ready to heat your home!
B) How to Check and Change Your Furnace Filter
Proper maintenance of your furnace filter can help optimize airflow from your furnace, which will keep it running efficiently and economically during the coldest months of the year. To prevent burnout of your furnace parts, we recommend inspecting your filter monthly and changing it every three to six months. Here's how it's done:
* Begin by carefully opening the furnace's external rack or panel door.
* Remove the furnace filter by sliding it out. Take a look at the filter to see if there's any darkness or discoloration.
* If you can't see through the filter, it's definitely time for a new one. Slide the new filter into the furnace, making sure that it is installed in the direction of the airflow. And that's it - you're done!
C) How to Test Your Furnace's Airflow
If a room in your house is too cold during the winer, it might be because your furnace isn't supplying enough warm air through the registers in that particular room. There's a simple way to test the airflow from your furnace registers to make sure they are working properly -- the garbage bag airflow test.
The test is a quick way to estimate airflow by determining how long it takes to fill a common plastic garbage bag. While it is not a precise measurement, it is better than no measurement at all and will give you a good ideas as to whether you need to call a technician to look at your ductwork.
To do the garbage bag airflow test:
* Tape the mouth of the garbage bag to a coat hanger or piece of cardboard to keep it open.
* Crush the bag flat and place it over the register or exhaust hood.
* Count the number of seconds it takes for the bag to fully inflate.
If the inflation time is:
* 2 seconds = 37 L/s (75 cfm)
* 4 seconds = 20 L/s (40 cfm)
* 10 seconds = 10 L/s (20 cfm)
If the measured airflow is less than 10 L/s, the furnace is delivering only a small amount of heat to a room and needs to be further inspected to determine why the heat is not going through.
The garbage bag airflow test is also useful if you have changed your heating or cooling systems or have made major renovations to your house.
D) If Your Gas Furnace Fails to Ignite
If you can hear that your furnace is on and the fan is running, but all you're getting is cold air, you likely have ignition failure. Try resetting your furnace by turning the switch to off for at least ten seconds, then, turning it on again. If that doesn't do the trick, give your HVAC contractor a call.
E) Furnace Troubleshooting Checklist
Think your gas furnace has quit? You could save yourself the cost of a no-heat service call by checking the following:
* Is the furnace switch in the on position? It may have been turned off by mistake.
* Is the thermostat properly set to the "heat" position and the temperature set to your normal heat setting?
* Is the furnace venting blocked by snow or ice? If so, try to remove the blockage.
* Are the programmable thermostat batteries fresh?
* Is the circuit breaker in the electric panel in the proper position?
* Is the furnace door properly closed?
* Has the filter been changed recently? If you've checked everything on the list and your furnace still isn't working, give your local HVAC contractor a call, and they'll get your furnace back up and running as soon as possible.
F) How to Properly Remove Vent Blockages
If you become aware of a furnace problem that might involve the exterior vent, do a quick inspection and see if any snow, ice or some common household item might be blocking the vent. If so, before removing the obstruction, head inside first and turn the off the power to your furnace. Now, you can safely clear away whatever is blocking your exterior vent. Once you're done, turn your furnace back on using either the breaker or the switch.
A lack of airflow through the furnace's interior vents could mean your furnace fan motor has seized. If this has happened, don't try to fix the problem yourself - contact the expert furnace repair technicians at your local HVAC contractor.
G) How to Stop Air Leaks and Prevent Heat Loss
Air leaks account for a significant amount of a home's heat loss in winter - resulting in increased heating costs as your furnace constantly tries to replace the warm air that has escaped from your home. Fixing these leaks will save you money on your heating bills.
To stop leaks around windows and doors:
* Remove the trims carefully.
* Fill large cracks or gaps with foam backer rod, oakum, or expanding polyurethane foam.
* Replace the trims and caulk along the edges.
To stop leaks along baseboards:
* Caulk along the seams without removing the baseboard.
* Remove the baseboard and caulk between the wall and the floor.
To stop leaks around electrical outlets on outside walls:
* Turn off power to the outlet and remove the outlet cover.
* Install a foam insulating pad.
* Replace the outlet cover turn the power back on to the outlet.
To stop leaks in an unfinished basement:
* Caulk under the basement sill plate and around the joists with a rubber-based caulking or acoustical sealant.
* Caulk any gaps where ducts enter a wall or ceiling.
* Insulate ducts with preformed wraps or duct-taped insulation batts.
To stop leaks in your attic:
* Seal any cracks.
* Weather strip your attic door and close it tightly.
H) If a Gas Smell is Detected
In the unlikely event that you smell something like a rotten egg smell, you could have a gas leak. Don't turn on any electrical switches and open all of your windows. Then, go to a neighbour's house and contact your HVAC contractor or your local gas provider immediately.
Holmes Heating is the most trusted Ottawa HVAC contractor, specializing in duct cleaning service and the sale, rental, installation, service, and maintenance of natural gas furnaces, air conditioners, water heaters, and humidifiers. Visit us online at www.HolmesHeating.com today.
Thursday, December 15, 2011
Sound Vault Soundproof Recording Studio Doors
There is precious little information on the Internet about soundproof doors. In this article we will talk about doors with a sound rating of 55 STC or greater. Soundproof doors can be used in many applications for example, sound recording studios, high end home theaters as well as private office spaces and conference room application.
Generally most soundproof doors are custom made to the customer's specifications. The most effective soundproofed doors are constructed in layers and are from 2 inches to 3 inches thick. The better soundproof doors come complete with the doorframe and all of the mounting hardware, which would include the perimeter sound seals and the door bottom drop down transom seal. The drop down transom is a spring-loaded mechanism that trips a trigger when the door is closed which in turn drops the spring-loaded seal to where it contacts the floor and seals the door from the bottom. These parts are part of the tested door assembly. These doors are constructed of laminated wood with multiple layers of sound barriers as well as visco elastic damping compounds added. Soundproof doors come ready to stain or paint to match any décor.
These doors weigh in at about 300 Lbs so there is some labor involved in their installation. One of the better soundproof doors is provided by Soundproofing America and it is a called the Sound Vault(TM) acoustical door. This door comes in either and oak finish that is ready to stain as well as the optional birch, maple and cherry finishes.
The Sound Vault(TM) Acoustical doors are ready to install and can be custom made to match any décor. The application for these doors is endless. The Sound Vault(TM) acoustical door are a superb recording studio door, which can also be used for voice over booths as well. They are a great addition to any Home theater or media room application.
Any place where sound is an issue, the Sound Vault(TM) acoustical door is the solution.
For more information on this and other soundproofing and noise control products, go to the experts at soundproofing America.
I hope you have found this to be informative. This is Dr. Bob...Out!!
Dr. Bob is the Senior Technical Advisor at Soundproofing America Inc, the leading authority in Soundproofing and Acoustical treatment technology.
Dr. Bob O.
Soundproofing America, Inc.
Senior Technical Director
Soundproofing Expert to The New York Times, The San Francisco Herald Examiner, The San Diego Union Tribune, and the Charlotte Observer
Ph (877) 530-0139 Toll free Fax (347) 721-9079
E-mail: Dr.bob@soundproofingamerica.com
http://www.soundproofingamerica.com
Tuesday, December 13, 2011
Five Tips on How to Build a Quiet PC
If you're a computer enthusiast who's ready to mod your current computer with the latest and greatest computer hardware, or if you're someone who just can't stand the noise your computer is constantly making, you're in luck. Below are the top five tips on building a quiet pc.
1.) Power Supply - This is the device that produces the power for your computer. Unfortunately, this is almost always the noisiest part your computer includes. It usually contains one or two fans which are used to cool the device down. Fortunately, with today's technology, you can now buy power supplies which only use their fans when the temperature reaches a set point. This will both reduce noise, and save energy.
2.) Case Fans - The reasons for having case fans are obvious, to create proper airflow. Unfortunately, for some computers, they're only there to create obnoxious noise. If your computer is mainly used for documents, internet, and e-mail, chances are you don't need more than one case fan. A system used for the latest computer games on the other hand, will need proper airflow to bring internal temperatures down to a safe operating level.
3.) Disk Drives - If this is your noise issue, there isn't too much you can do, except invest in a CD or DVD drive known for being a quieter model, or insert acoustic padding around them. If you're having issues with floppy drive noises, I'll just tell you now, you're way behind in technology. A memory card reader is far faster, and is completely silent.
4.) Hard Drives - Hard drive noises are often difficult to suppress as well. The common hard drive noises are heard when the device is in use, opening a program, installing software, etc. Often the noises are the vibrations between your hard drive, and your hard drives mount. Cushioning your device with padding like silica gel can often reduce some of the noise. If you're hard drive is making unusual and highly noticeable noises while not in use, there's a chance it could be failing. Please consult a service technician if this is the case.
5.) Computer Case - This is often forgotten about. There are many types of cases engineered in all sorts of ways. You can even purchase a case with sound padding materials included in it. Consider the material of the case itself. An aluminum case can by flimsy, and can increase noise levels from its vibrations. A steel case however, is more solid, and is less prone to creating vibrations. The down side of a steel case would be its weight. Whichever case you decide to use, adding acoustic sound padding, silica gel, and foam blocks, will significantly reduce vibrations.
Building a quiet pc isn't for everyone. If you own a brand name computer, you'll likely have a hard time following the tips shown above. Modifications to a brand name computer could potentially void a warranty. I would suggest researching this first before using my tips. You must also remember that your computer must run at safe operating temperature to avoid any device malfunctions, or even failure. Testing and research is always recommended.
This article has been provided courtesy of [http://www.build-quiet-pc.com]. You have our authorization to reprint this item anywhere on the internet, or even in your ezine or newsletter. If you decide to reprint this article, make sure the author information and this courtesy notice is included.